Back in 2018 I created a test panel for wood finishes because I wanted to see how the different finishes aged over time. It’s been 6 years since I created the test panel, and in this blog we will examine how the different finishes are aging. Also, I will cover some pros and cons for each finish, and talk finish sheen levels.
Before I discuss the individual wood finishes on my test panel, I want to mention that all of the finishes are considered indoor finishes. If you want a finish for outdoor applications, then look for one that specifically states it is good for outdoor applications. Spar urethane is one such finish, but I will warn you that upon application it will add a very noticeable yellow hue to the wood.
Something I get frequently asked about is how to keep artwork from fading. I am not aware of any finish that will accomplish this. The only thing that will keep pyrography from fading is to burn on an acid-free medium. Wood is not acid-free.
With all of that said, now let’s examine the finishes.
To watch a video version of this blog, click on the icon to the left.
From left to right this picture shows the following: no finish or untreated, lacquer, and polycrylic.
Again from left to right the finishes are as follows: shellac, polyurethane, and mod podge hard coat.
Lastly, the final last panel is Tru-Oil.
This image shows all of the test panels together. I think this makes it easier to compare the color of the different finishes. Two of them are have a very noticeable yellow hue. Those two are polyurethan and Tru-Oil.
This test panel was created in 2018, so it has been aging for 6 years.
Lightness Ranking
My ranking of the finishes according to their lightness:
1st = Untreated (no finish)
2nd = Polycrylic
3rd = Mod Podge hard coat
4th = Lacquer
5th = Shellac
6th = Polyurethane
7th = Tru-oil
COST COMPARISON
Now let’s compare the costs. Here are my comparison criteria:
1-quart of brush-on style cans (32 ounces / 946 ml).
If possible: Water-based, matte finish
The products were priced in August, 2024.
The first column lists the finish. From top to bottom: untreated, lacquer, mod podge, polycrylic, polyurethane, shellac, and Tru-Oil.
The second column is the brand of finish I used for the comparison.
The third column is the price I found on Amazon. The last column is the price I found on home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot.
Mod podge has an asterisk by it because the largest quantity I could find was for 16 ounces (473 ml). I doubled the cost of that 16-ounce to get a 32-ounce equivalent for the cost comparison.
Surprising to me is that the Amazon and home improvement store prices are similar. I should note that I did not take shipping into consideration.
Of the finishes, Mod Podge is the most expensive. Lacquer and Shellac are the cheapest.
FINISH PROS and CONS
Before we examine each panel in closer detail, I want to mention that Todd uses water-based finishes that he brushes on. Between his wood working and my artwork, he goes through a fair amount of wood finish. Brush on varieties are more economical than cans of spray on. Water-based finishes tend to be less smelly, and easier to clean up. Also, oil-based finishes tend to impart a yellow hue immediately upon application, and it darkens with age.
Now let’s examine each finish on my test panel. The finishes are presented in the order they appear on the board from left to right.
NO FINISH or UNTREATED
First up is the untreated panel. This panel does not have any finish applied to it. It’s no surprise that it is the lightest in color.
PROS
- Free
- Doesn’t take any time
CONS
- No protection from humidity changes, so its at risk for bowing
- No protection from drying out, so it’s at risk for cracking
- Zero protection from dusts, dirt, and grimy hands
LACQUER
Next is Lacquer. The lacquer has taken on a pale tan color. Lacquer is Todd’s preferred wood finish because you don’t have to sand between coats. Plus, he likes how easy it can be thinned with lacquer thinner to make the coats flow onto the board surface easier.
PROS
- Don’t have to sand between coats
- Can thin to make first coats flow easier
- Available in matte (oil-based)
- Spray-on versions are available
CONS
- Moderately stinky – apply in a well-ventilated area. For some reason the aroma reminds me of dill pickles.
- For best results with the brush on variety, Todd recommends thinning the first couple coats with lacquer thinner
- Can be difficult to brush on and remain streak free
- Depending on location, local store may not carry matte finish
- I could only find matte in oil-based formula
POLYCRYLIC
Now let’s talk about Polycrylic. This finish has impressed me with how clear it has remained. This wood finish is my personal favorite because of how clear it stays.
PROS
- Remains very clear
- Can get in matte and ultra flat sheen levels
- Spray-on versions are available
- Doesn’t have a strong aroma to me – more glue like. It’s not pleasant, but not offensively stinky as most of the wood finishes tend to be
CONS
- Have to sand between coats
- Can look a touch milky if applied over dark wood or dark paints
- Has a very thin consistency, so it’s easy to get run marks and drips
- Feels like plastic to my fingers
SHELLAC
Shellac is the next finish on the panel. Shellac imparted a slight tan hue to the wood immediately upon applying. The color continues to darken over time.
PROS
- Food safe once fully cured
- Adheres to almost everything
- Easy to apply
- Can be removed with alcohol (if need to reapply)
- Don’t need to sand between coats
- Spray-on versions are available
CONS
- Cans of liquid brush-on shellac will dry out quickly – buy what you need
- Not very water resistant – white rings from glasses
- Imparts a yellow / tan hue that gets darker with age
- Alcohol from cologne, and beverages can damage the finish
- Tends to be glossy
- Todd claims this finish isn’t near as “aromatic” as lacquer or polyurethane. I didn’t sniff if, but I doubt it pleasant.
POLYURETHANE
Now for polyurethane. This finish immediately imparts a yellow hue to the board that gets very noticeable and dark over time. We used the “clear” version of this stuff. Apparently, their idea of clear and mine are two different things. I do not recommend using this finish on pyrography artwork.
I mentioned spar urethane earlier in this blog as being good for outdoor use. The yellow hue that spar urethane imparts upon application is darker than the polyurethane shown here. It’s not a finish I would recommend using if you have detailed artwork. If your making a sign or silhouette, then I’d consider using spar urethane.
PROS
- This is the most durable finish on my test panel
- Matte finish available
- Spray-on versions are available
CONS
- Extremely stinky!
- Fumes can be toxic – apply in an very well ventilated area
- Imparts a yellow hue upon application – gets darker with time
- Need to sand between coats
MOD PODGE HARD COAT
Mod Podge hard coat. I found this at the craft store, and noticed it said it was suitable for furniture. I decided to try it out on pyrography.
I have been surprised and impressed at how clear the finish has remained.
I will admit that my application of the finish wasn’t great. There are brush mark ridges in the finish that are easy to see when the panel is angled to the light. I didn’t bother remove ridges after the mod podge cured because I was being lazy. Plus, this is a test panel, so I didn’t really care how smooth it was. Especially since I didn’t expect the finish to perform well.
PROS
- Remains fairly clear
- Least offensively smelling finish – it reminds me of white Elmer’s glue aroma
CONS
- Very thick, so doesn’t flow easily
- Needs 30 days to fully cure
- Available in Satin only
- Need to wet sand to remove ridges
- Available only in brush-on version
- Most expensive of the finishes on my test panel
TRU-OIL
This is another finish that immediately imparts a yellow hue to the wood. Of all of the finished on my panel, this is the darkest one.
I only included this finish because at the time I created the test panel, I was getting a lot of requests to burn on gun stocks. Tru-oil is an extremely popular finish for gun stocks and knife handles. Personally, I do not recommend this finish for pyrography artwork!
PROS
- None that I’m aware of
CONS
- It’s very stinky. The smell seems to linger forever.
- Discolors the wood, and gets very dark with age
- Available only in brush-on version
AMAZON LINKS
Below are Amazon affiliate links. This means that if you buy a product using one of the links, then I get a very small portion of the selling fee Amazon charges the seller. The cost to you doesn’t change.
Lacquer: https://amzn.to/46kowTs
Mod Podge: https://amzn.to/4dg5Oi5
Polycrylic: https://amzn.to/3A1gum2
Polyurethane: https://amzn.to/3SiNrkd
Shellac: https://amzn.to/3Wzdbvw
Tru-Oil: https://amzn.to/4ffCzgR
FINISH SHEEN
Lastly, let’s talk about the finish sheen. Finishes are available in matte, satin, semi-gloss, and glossy. I personally prefer matte because I don’t like reflected like interfering with viewing the artwork. If you prefer a glossy finish, that’s great. I only state my preference and why because if I don’t someone will ask.
Normally, I wouldn’t even bother mentioning the sheen, but I had a YouTube pyrography artist inform me that glossy finishes remain clearer than matte. The reasoning was that manufacturers have to add something to matte finishes to reduce the shine. I contacted several different finish manufacturers, but not one of them got back to me on this subject. That’s okay, I created a test panel to test out this theory.
My test panel uses Minwax’s water based, brush on style polycrylic. I created the test panel in 2019, so it’s had 5 years to age.
Personally, I don’t see much of a difference between the finishes. If anything, the glossy finish might have a slightly darker tan hue than the matte finish.
IN CONCLUSION
This concludes another blog. I hope this blog helps you decide which finish would be best for your own art projects. Thank you for reading.
Brenda
Sept 2024
Want to subscribe?
- Click on the “Leave a Comment” field at the end of any post (blog) and a subscribe option will appear.
- Put something in the comment field (if you put “test” or “just subscribing” I won’t make your comment public)
- Fill in the sections for your email address and name, and then click on the “notify me of new posts via email.”
- You will get a confirmation email from WordPress confirming you want to subscribe.
- Click on the confirm button in that email and you’re done.
Please note that I do not send out emails. If you have a WordPress account there is a way to subscribe within the WordPress system, but I cannot provide specifics on how it works as I don’t know.
Brenda
Wanted to see if you have tried Danish oil. Back in my furniture days , i used danish oil on my aromatic cedar chest. Hopeful to hear from you soon.
I have not tried Danish oil. I believe that oil based finishes darken the wood more than water based ones. I’m not 100% on that though.
Brenda thank you for this post: the experiment you have done will be very helpful for me in the future. I’ve been using polyurethane on all my projects in the past unaware of the results after a long period of time. I’ve used a lot of your knowledge and experience in pass which has help me a lot with my projects. I enjoy your projects and all the information you are sharing with us who are doing pyrography. For me it has save me a lot of steps and research. Thank you for sharing. Ralph
Hi Ralph,
thank you very much for the lovely comment. It is good to know that my blogs are helpful.