In this blog I’m going to talk about the last thing we do with our finished artwork; hang it on the wall. This blog will cover the different types of hangers I use. I will also explain when and why I use a particular hanger.
Click on the image to the left to watch a YouTube video version of the information.
TYPE 1 – SAWTOOTH
Sawtooth hangers come in two main styles, pronged and flat. Both styles are available in an assortment of lengths.
The pronged sawtooth hanger as metal legs or prongs that secure the hanger to the wood. You can get them in different sizes.
The prongs are ribbed to help keep the hanger secure.
Always check to make sure that the board is thick enough to handle the prongs. You won’t want the metal tips sticking out on the surface of your artwork!
To install, first mark the center of the board.
This particular sawtooth hanger has a metal nodule indicating the center of the hanger. This nodule needs to align with the center of the board!
Once the hanger is properly placed, then use a hammer to tap it into the board. I tap a few times on one side, then tap on the other.
Here’s how it looks after being installed.
This hanger does not sit flush against the board. The gap provides room for the nail head to fit between the hanger and the board.
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the hanger.
I pry one side up a little, and then pry on the other side. Eventually the hanger will come loose.
Just be aware that there will be two deep noticeable holes in the board.
If you remove a sawtooth hanger, do not place a new one in the holes made from the old one! Place the new hanger in a new spot a little way above or below the old hanger.
Prongless or flat sawtooth hangers have metal tabs that sit flat on the board. These are available in a range of sizes. These are called nailless sawtooth picture hangers.
The flat sawtooth hangers I’ve seen do not have a nodule. Instead, there is an odd number of teeth, so the center of the board is aligned with the middle tooth.
I find it extremely helpful to use pliers to hold the tiny nail in place when you begin to hammer the nail into the board.
I personally like to get one side started, and then work on the other side.
Here’s how the hanger looks installed.
It has the same gap between the hanger and the board that the pronged sawtooth hanger has.
This hanger can be removed by using a flat head screwdriver.
The holes are much smaller than the pronged hanger created.
I like to use sawtooth hangers on smaller artwork.
I consider anything that is less than 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide to be smaller artwork.
Place the hanger 1 – 2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) from the top edge of the board. Do you best to make sure the hanger is level and centered.
I have successfully glued a flat sawtooth hanger onto the back of artwork that was burned on a really small and thin piece of wood. I used a hot glue gun to adhere the hanger. As you can see, I was very liberal with the application of glue.
PROS
- Only need 1 hanger
- Quick and easy to use
CONS
- Art won’t hang right if they are installed too far off center
- Artwork doesn’t hang flush on the wall
- Some art contests won’t accept artwork that uses sawtooth hangers
- I wouldn’t trust them on large or heavy artwork
I personally like to use sawtooth hangers on small artwork because of how quick and easy they are to use. As I said before, I consider anything less than 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide to be smaller artwork.
TYPE 2 – EYE HOOKS or SCREW EYES
Eye hooks are screws that have a loop or circle form on the non-threaded end.
I like to create a pilot hole in the board before attempting to attach an eye hook. The pilot or guide hole makes it much easier to get the eye hook started.
I create a pilot hole by hammering a thin nail a short way into the wood, and then I remove the nail.
Two eye hooks are needed to hang a piece of artwork, but I’m only going to demonstrate attaching 1 eye hook.
The hole guides the point of the eye hook into the wood, and then the hook can be rotated until the threaded screw is completely imbedded in the board.
The bad thing with eye hooks, is that they stick up quite a ways from the surface of the board.
Hanging wire is needed to make the eye hook function. Thread 1-2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) of wire through the eye.
Fold the wire end over
Then wrap the wire end tightly over the main wire.
Here’s how it looked once I was done.
The only time I use eye hooks is to hang artwork burned on a cradled board.
The eye hooks are small enough that they will fit on narrow boards.
Thee main reasons I like to use eye hooks on cradled boards is that they allow the artwork to hang flush on the wall.
PROS
- Allow cradled boards to hang flush on the wall
- Can fit on narrow boards
CONS
- Need two hooks and some hanging wire to use
- Stick up considerably from the board surface
- Limited applications
I only use eye hooks when I’m hanging cradled boards. I like them because they allow the board to hang flush on the wall, and will fit narrow cradled boards.
TYPE 3 – TRIANGLE
Triangle hangers are triangle shaped metal with a sleeve on one side for attaching to the board. D-rings will also work. I just happen to have triangles on hand. There isn’t a benefit to to use one over the other; that I’m aware of. I ended up with triangles, but that what was available at the store.
You can secure this type of hanger with either nails or screws. I highly recommend using screws!
In fact, I only buy sets of these hangers that come with the screws.
Always check to make sure the board is thick enough to handle the screw.
This applies to all of the hangers.
This particular board is too thin. The tip of the screw sticks out past the edge of the board.
I find that using a pilot or guide hole makes it easier to secure the hanger to the board. I will be using the nail hole from the flat sawtooth hanger demo.
It’s very easy to attach. Create a pilot hole where you want the hanger to be. Put the hanger in place, and use the screw to secure it to the board.
Here’s how it looks after I attached it.
Here’s the side view. It has a much thinner profile than the other hangers.
Hanging wire is needed. Thread 1-2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) of wire through the triangle.
Fold the wire end over
Then wrap the wire end tightly over the main wire.
I push the wire end under the main wire.
Then I pull the end wire up to snug up the wire.
Repeat until the all of the wire end has been wrapped. Try to keep the wraps tight and next to each other.
Here’s how it looked once I was done. You can see a little section of wire sticking out. These little bits of wire can easily poke into your finger.
I use pliers to guide the loose ends around the main wire.
I like to use triangle hangers on larger artwork.
I consider larger artwork to be anything that is wider than 10 inches (25.4 cm).
Place the hangers approximately 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the board, and 1-2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) from the sides of the board.
The hangers can be used on cradled boards.
I did use a triangle hanger on this odd shaped serving tray.
The tray was very lightweight and not very thick. I used a hot glue gun to apply a very thick layer of glue to the metal sleave on the hanger.
PROS
- Can be used on almost all artwork
- Of the 3 I demoed; this is the most secure option for hanging artwork
- Don’t stick out from the board surface as much as sawtooth hangers do
- I would trust this hanging system on larger artwork
CONS
- Need two hangers and wire to use
- Artwork doesn’t hang flush on the wall
I use triangle or D-rings on larger artwork. To me anything over 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide is larger. If you want to have just 1 style of hanger on hand, this is the one I would recommend.
HANGER SHOPPING
All of the hangers I demoed can be found at craft store, home improvement stores, and numerous online venders like amazon.
I highly recommend purchasing hanger that require screws versus nails to secure them. The screws are a lot more secure, so unlikely to fall out over time.
There are many options available.
Another option is to buy a kit that includes everything you need. There are assorted kits available.
Some of these kits contain enough variety to handle a wide range of artwork weight.
Below are affiliate links* for different hangers. I tried to make sure all of the produced are listed for heavy duty use:
Pronged sawtooth: https://amzn.to/3mhD4R7
Prongless sawtooth. These use screws, so are more secure than nails: https://amzn.to/3o0GPuM
Eye Hooks: https://amzn.to/3MppjdL
Triangle hangers: https://amzn.to/3nWSxXa
D-Ring hangers & hanging wire: https://amzn.to/3KKiqCp
This hanging kit contains a wide variety, and includes wall brackets: https://amzn.to/3nQcjU6
This kit has lots of D rings, triangles, and sawtooth hangers. No eye hooks or wall brackets: https://amzn.to/3mhD4R7
*Note that I find the first listing that matches the criteria I’m after. I do not search for the best deal. I highly recommend doing your own search. Also, it can be beneficial to check other places that specialize in hanging artwork.
HANGING WIRE
I used braided picture hanging wire. It can also be referred to as framers wire, hanging wire, or picture wire to name a few.
Here’s a close up of the wire.
The wire is made out of thinner wire braided together. This gives the wire greater strength, but allows it to remain more flexible.
Amazon has a wide range of hanging wire. Some of the options include the hanging hardware.
You can also purchase the wire at most craft stores like Michaels.
Even home improvement stores carry the wire.
Always check the weight rating of the wire. Make sure it is strong enough to support the weight of your board. For me, 30-pound wire has been more than sufficient for all of my artwork.
Amazon link for 100 feet of wire rated for 30 pounds: https://amzn.to/3o0kxt1
IN CONCLUSION
That’s it for this blog. I hope I was able to provide some helpful information.
Until the next blog,
Brenda
May 2, 2023
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