In this blog I’m going to talk about the last thing we do with our finished artwork; hang it on the wall. This blog will cover the different types of hangers I use. I will also explain when and why I use a particular hanger.
Click on the image to the left to watch a YouTube video version of the information.
Or you can click on this link: https://youtu.be/7RvIl6vOOUw
TYPE 1 – SAWTOOTH
Sawtooth hangers come in two main styles: pronged and flat. Both styles are available in an assortment of lengths.
PRONGED SAWTOOTH
The pronged or nail-less sawtooth hanger have metal legs or prongs that secure the hanger to the wood. You can get them in different sizes.
The prongs are ribbed to help keep the hanger secure.
Be aware that not all art contest will accept artwork that has pronged sawtooth hangers.
The problem is that the pronged variety is the least secure type of hanger. These type of hangers are designed for small lightweight boards; 10 pounds or less (4.5 kg or less). If the board is too heavy, the hanger can get pulled out from the board.
Another consideration is to check to make sure that the board is thick enough to handle the prongs.
You won’t want the metal tips sticking out on the surface of your artwork!
To install, first mark the center of the board.
This particular sawtooth hanger has a metal nodule indicating the center of the hanger.
This nodule needs to align with the center of the board!
If possible, place the hanger 1 – 2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) from the top edge of the board.
Do you best to make sure the hanger is level and centered. I try to make sure the hanger is parallel with the upper edge of the board.
Once the hanger is properly placed, then use a hammer to tap it into the board. I tap a few times on one side, then tap on the other.
Here’s how it looks after being installed.
This hanger does not sit flush against the board. The gap provides room for the nail head to fit between the hanger and the board.
Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the hanger.
I pry one side up a little, and then pry on the other side. Eventually the hanger will come loose.
Just be aware that there will be two deep noticeable holes in the board.
If you remove a sawtooth hanger, do not place a new one in the holes made from the old one! Using the same holes increases the chance of the hanger failing. Instead, place the new hanger in a new spot a little way above or below the old hanger.
PROS
- Only need one hanger
- No additional hardware (like nails or screws) is needed
- Quick and easy to use
- Tend to be cheaper than other types of hangers
CONS
- Art won’t hang right if they are installed too far off center
- Artwork doesn’t hang flush on the wall
- Some art contests won’t accept artwork that uses pronged sawtooth hangers
- These are designed for lightweight artwork
FLAT SAWTOOTH
Flat sawtooth hangers have metal tabs that sit flat on the board. Like the pronged version, they are available in a range of sizes. These type of hangers need nails or screws the secure them to the board.
If you can, use the screw variety because they more secure than nails.
I didn’t have any of the screw variety on hand when I wrote this, so I’ll be demonstrating one that requires a nail.
I would give the nailed version the same weight limit as pronged sawtooth, so 10 pounds or less (4.5 kg or less).
You can purchase the type using screws that can handle up to 250 pounds (113.4 kg). Make sure to check the weight rating.
The flat sawtooth hangers I’ve seen do not have a nodule. Instead, there is an odd number of teeth, so the center of the board is aligned with the middle tooth.
ALWAYS make sure that the nail or screw isn’t longer than the depth of the board.
You don’t want a sharp point sticking out of your artwork!
I find it extremely helpful to use pliers to hold the tiny nail in place when you begin to hammer the nail into the board.
I personally like to get one side started, and then work on the other side.
I do the same if I’m using screws.
Most of the time the hole is large enough that there is a little wiggle room.
I use this wiggle room to make any minor adjustments as needed to ensure the hanger is level or parallel with the top edge of the board.
Here’s how the hanger looks installed.
It has the same gap between the hanger and the board that the pronged sawtooth hanger has.
This hanger can be removed by using a flat head screwdriver.
The holes are much smaller than the pronged hanger created.
Sawtooth hangers can be used on larger or heavier artwork than the pronged variety.
Always check the weight rating of the hanger!
I have successfully glued a flat sawtooth hanger onto the back of artwork that was burned on a really small and thin piece of wood.
I used a hot glue gun to adhere the hanger. As you can see, I was very liberal with the application of glue.
PROS
- Only need 1 hanger
- Quick and easy to use.
- Can get styles that can hold up to 250 pounds (113.4 kg)
CONS
- Art won’t hang right if they are installed too far off center
- Artwork doesn’t hang flush on the wall
- Requires additional hardware (nails or screws)
- Cost more than the pronged variety
TYPE 2 – EYE HOOKS or SCREW EYES
Eye hooks are screws that have a loop or circle form on the non-threaded end.
Be aware that two eye hooks and hanging wire are needed to hang a piece of artwork. I’m only going to demonstrate attaching 1 eye hook.
You can purchase eye hooks that are rated up to 1,700 pounds (771.1 kg). Keep in mind that the hooks are enormous! I highly doubt you could find hanging wire rated for that weight.
I like to create a pilot hole in the board before attempting to attach an eye hook. The pilot or guide hole makes it much easier to get the eye hook started.
I create a pilot hole by hammering a thin nail a short way into the wood, and then I remove the nail.
When you create a pilot or guide hole, try to make the hole as straight up and down as possible.
The hole guides the point of the eye hook into the wood.
Afterwards, the hook can be rotated until the threaded screw is completely imbedded in the board.
Depending on how hard the board is, it can be helpful to use pliers to twist the hook into the board.
The bad thing with eye hooks, is that they stick up quite a ways from the surface of the board.
Hanging wire is needed to make the eye hook function. Hanging wire is sold in different thickness that determine how much weight they can safely hold.
First, thread 1-2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) of wire through the eye.
Fold the wire end over
Then wrap the wire end tightly over the main wire.
Here’s how it looked once I was done.
The only time I use eye hooks is to hang artwork burned on a cradled board.
The eye hooks are small enough that they will fit on narrow frame portion of board.
The main reasons I like to use eye hooks on cradled boards is that they allow the artwork to hang flush on the wall.
PROS
- Allow cradled boards to hang flush on the wall
- Can fit on narrow boards
- You can hang artwork that is up to 1,700 pounds (771.1 kg). Keep in mind that the hooks are enormous! I highly doubt you could find hanging wire rated for that weight.
CONS
- Need two hooks and some hanging wire to use
- Stick up considerably from the board surface
- Limited applications
TYPE 3 – TRIANGLE
Triangle hangers are triangle shaped metal with a sleeve on one side for attaching to the board. D-rings will also work. I just happen to have triangles on hand. As far as I know, there isn’t a benefit to to use one over the other. I ended up with triangles, because that what was available at the store.
You can secure this type of hanger with either nails or screws. I highly recommend using screws!
In fact, I only buy sets of these hangers that come with the screws.
Again, always check to make sure the board is thick enough to handle the screw or nail.
This applies to all of the hangers.
The upper board is good, but the lower board is too thin. The tip of the screw sticks out past the edge of the board.
I find that using a pilot or guide hole makes it easier to secure the hanger to the board.
When you create a pilot or guide hole, try to make the hole as straight up and down as possible.
Attaching rings is very easy. Create a pilot hole where you want the hanger to be.
Put the hanger in place, and secure it using a screw.
Here’s how it looks after I attached it.
Here’s the side view. It has a much thinner profile than the other hangers.
As I said, hanging wire is needed. I use the same technique used with the eye hooks.
Thread 1-2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) of wire through the triangle.
Fold the wire end over.
Then wrap the wire end tightly over the main wire.
I push the wire end under the main wire.
Then I pull the end wire up to snug up the wire.
Repeat until the all of the wire end has been wrapped. Try to keep the wraps tight and next to each other.
Often there is a a little section of wire that sticks out. These little bits of wire can easily poke into your finger.
I’ve found that using pliers along the end of the wire tames the loose ends.
I like to place the hangers approximately 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the top of the board, and 1-2 inches (2.54 – 5.1 cm) from the sides of the board.
You can use these type of hangers on cradled boards.
I have glued a triangle hanger to the back of a VERY lightweight piece of artwork.
PROS
- Can be used on almost all artwork
- This one of the most secure option for hanging artwork
- Don’t stick out from the board surface as much as sawtooth hangers do
- Can place the hangers almost anywhere on the back of the board. Precision isn’t necessary
CONS
- Need two hangers and hanging wire to use
- Artwork doesn’t hang flush on the wall
HANGER SHOPPING
All of the hangers I demoed can be found at craft store, home improvement stores, and numerous online venders like Amazon.
I highly recommend purchasing hanger that require screws versus nails to secure them. The screws are a lot more secure, so unlikely to fall out over time.
There are many options available. You can buy items individually, or buy kits. Some of these kits contain enough variety to handle a wide range of artwork weight.
Below are affiliate links* for different hangers. I tried to make sure all of the produced are listed for heavy duty use:
Pronged sawtooth: https://amzn.to/3mhD4R7
Flat sawtooth (prong less): These use screws, so are more secure than nails: https://amzn.to/3o0GPuM
Eye Hooks: https://amzn.to/3MppjdL
Triangle hangers: https://amzn.to/3nWSxXa
D-Ring hangers & hanging wire: https://amzn.to/3KKiqCp
This hanging kit contains a wide variety, and includes wall brackets: https://amzn.to/3nQcjU6
This kit has lots of D rings, triangles, and sawtooth hangers. No eye hooks or wall brackets: https://amzn.to/3mhD4R7
*Note that I find the first listing that matches the criteria I’m after. I do not search for the best deal. I highly recommend doing your own search. Also, it can be beneficial to check other places that specialize in hanging artwork.
HANGING WIRE
I use braided picture hanging wire. It can also be referred to as framers wire, hanging wire, or picture wire to name a few.
Here’s a close up of the wire.
The wire is made out of thinner wire braided together. This gives the wire greater strength, but allows it to remain more flexible.
Amazon has a wide range of hanging wire. Some of the options include the hanging hardware.
You can also purchase the wire at most craft stores like Michaels.
Even home improvement stores carry the wire.
Always check the weight rating of the wire. Make sure it is strong enough to support the weight of your board. For me, 30-pound wire has been more than sufficient for all of my artwork.
Amazon link for 100 feet of wire rated for 30 pounds: https://amzn.to/3o0kxt1
IN CONCLUSION
That’s it for this blog. I hope I was able to provide some helpful information.
Until the next blog,
Brenda
May 2, 2023
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