In this tutorial I’m going to explain how to build a cradled board.  Cradled boards are thin pieces of wood that have a wooden support base.  Most of the cradled boards I’ve seen for sale are made with birch plywood on the top and pine wood for the support base.   The wonderful thing about making your own is that you can use any combination of wood for this.   Another benefit of making your own is that you can build one to any size you desire.  

Click on the image to the left to watch a YouTube video version of the tutorial. 

This blog will explain two different styles of cradled boards.  One is a 90-degree box style cradle. 

Note that I will use the term frame and cradle interchangeably in this blog.

The other is a 45-degree picture frame style cradle. 

 

 

Let’s get started.

 

SKILL LEVEL: 1

MATERIALS NEEDED:  

• Flat wood for the top*
• Boards to make the cradle
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Saw
• Clamps
• Wood glue
• Piece of scrap lumber if hand sawing
• Painter’s tape (only if doing the 45 degree or picture frame styled support)

To make it easier to follow along with this blog, I will refer to the thin wood on top or front of the cradle board as plywood.

ABOUT THE MATERIALS NEEDED

Todd used 1 x 2 (2.5 x 5.1 cm) pine boards to make the support out of.  Make sure the board(s) are straight.  Bowed boards will cause the cradled board to warp. 

I do want to mention that if you make a really large cradled board, you may need larger support boards or cross bracing. 

 

 

This image, from Rex Art, shows cross bracing examples used on large board.   If you want more information here’s their website:  https://www.rexart.com/cradled-wood-panels-extra-deep.html

Todd highly recommends getting a combination ruler if you don’t already own one.  Amazon link:  Combo Ruler

You can easily create straight lines using the 90-degree side.

You can also create 45-degree lines using the other side of it.

If you are using a hand saw, make sure to use a cross cut saw. 

This type of saw has a lot of small or fine teeth, and is designed to create a clean cut across the grain.

Don’t use a ripping saw unless you want to do a lot of sanding.

Ripping saws have larger teeth that are more jagged.  This type of saw is designed to cut with the grain and quickly rip it into smaller widths.  It does not produce a smooth, clean cut.

Of course, if you have a power saw then use that.  Power saws would be chop saws, table saws, etc.

Any sort of clamp will work.  The black clamp is a spring clamp, and they are very inexpensive.   The blue one is a trigger or bar clamp, and depending on the size and brand they can get spendy.   You can find both styles at home improvement stores, and numerous sites online including Amazon.  Todd often shops Harbor Freight to get deals on clamps. 

The only thing to consideration with clamps is that they need to be able to open wide enough to handle the thickness of the plywood and the cradle or support boards.    In that regard the trigger or bar clamp is more versatile.

How many clamps are needed?  That depends on the type and size of cradled board you make. 

My cradled boards were 12 inches square (30.5 cm).   The box frame style needed 3, and the picture frame style needed 8.

I do want to point out that weights can be used instead of clamps with the picture frame styled board.  Canned goods can be used for the weights.  I would recommend placing a clean sheet of paper over the top of the board to protect the surface from the weights and/or cans.  Yes, I know Todd didn’t, but he made these boards just for demonstration purposes.  If the board got messed up it didn’t matter.

Todd likes to use the Titebond brand of wood glue.  In all honesty, any brand will work included Elmer’s white glue.

In the pictures you will see Todd dispensing glue from a bottle like this.  Todd likes this squeeze bottle because he can control the output better.  Plus, there is a fine tip nozzle for times when he needs a tiny amount of glue.   This bottle is not necessary.  I’m just showing it because it appears in the photos and video.

Todd used painter’s tape for the 45-degree frame, but you can also use masking tape.  

BENEFITS

Now I want to cover are the benefits of cradled boards.

When you’re working with thin plywood, the support or cradle will help prevent the plywood from warping or bowing.  This is true regardless of what type of wood the board is made of.   I consider a thin board as anything less than 1/4 inch thick (0.64 cm).

You can make the board ANY size you want.

You have control how thick or wide you want the side profile to be.

Buying thin sheets of pre-cut plywood on the internet is cheaper than buying cradled boards.   For example, if you look around you can find a 12 pack of pre-cut 12×12 inch (30.5×30.5cm) plywood that costs between 20-30 dollars.  Put a cradle on the board and the price doubles.  For example, I found a 6 pack of 12×12 cradled boards, and the price was the same as the 12 un-cradled boards.      

One thing I really like about cradled boards is that you can hang them flush on the wall.

This is done by using hanging wire hooks secured inside of the frame or cradle.

In my opinion, adding a cradle gives the board a more polished or professional look; especially when compared to a thin piece of plywood.

I paint the sides of the board to a dark color, and I burn a dark border around the edges on the front of the board.  This combination looks awesome, and I think it gives the artwork a ‘matted and framed’ appearance. 

BOX vs PICTURE

Functionally either type has all of the benefits listed in the benefits section.  The 90-degree box frame is a little easier to assemble and you don’t have to be as precise (at least I think so).  Plus, there are some visual differences.  

The first visual difference are the corners of the frame.  The 90-degree box frame on the left has straight edges where the boards meet.   The 45-degree picture frame on the right are angled to the 45.

The other difference is the outside or visible edge.   The top board is the 90-degree box frame, and you can see the end grain of the boards.   The bottom board is the 45-degree picture frame, and all of the visible sides look like solid wood. 

If you paint the sides, like I do, you won’t see a difference unless you really look for it.  If you like to burn the sides, then you will discover that the end grain does not burn evenly.  You will be able to tell where the end grain stops and the solid board begins.   The yellow arrow is pointing to the spot where one board ends and another begins.   To the left of the arrow is the open grain end of a board that doesn’t burn evenly.

STYLE 1 : 90-DEGREE BOX FRAME

We’ll start with the 90-degree frame. This frame doesn’t require as much precision as the 45-degree picture frame style. 

Another benefit is that this style doesn’t require as many clamps as the 45-degree style does.  Not to say that you can’t use more clamps, but Todd will show you how to get by with a few as possible.

Begin by examining the plywood.  Look over both sides and decide which one looks the best.  Then draw an X on the opposite or bad side of the plywood.  The X is the side that the frame gets attached to.

Now decide how you want the support boards oriented.  You can lay them flat, or you can lay them on their sides. 

 

Either way works, the only difference it makes is how thick side of the cradled board is.  The composite image shows how both boards look.  The top one has the supports lying flat, and the bottom has the supports on their side.

I’ve done artwork on both profile styles, and it looks great either way.

After you’ve decided the support board orientation, lay 2 of them on the plywood making sure the outer edges line up with the edge of the plywood. 

Then measure the distance between the two support boards.  If needed, clamp the boards in place while you measure to keep the boards from moving while you take measurement.

4 boards are needed.  Two boards need to be the length of the plywood.  These boards are represented by the blue boxes labeled ‘A’ on the image.   The other two boards are shorter because they are the distance between the two A boards.  The shorter boards are represented by the yellow boxes labeled ‘B’ on the image.

It can be very helpful to write on the measurement on the support board.  This way you can measure all of the boards before moving onto the next step.

Now, use a ruler to mark the measurements on the support boards.

After that, use the combination ruler to get a straight line on the boards.

If you are hand sawing, clamp one of the support boards to a piece of scrap lumber.  This way you won’t damage the table when you cut through the board.

 

 

 

Hand sawing the board is easier if you score the board first.  To make sure the score line is straight, it helps to use a guide.  Todd placed a piece of straight wood adjacent to the line for his guide.  Make sure to leave enough room for the width of the saw.

When you cut the board, always place the saw to the outside of the line.  In this image, the black arrow is pointing to the pencil line.  A green oblong circled the side of the board that will be cut to length.   The saw blade gets placed to the right of the line, as indicated by the red arrow.   

After the board is scored (has a shallow cut or groove), then you can remove the guide board and finish sawing.  The blade will follow the groove created when the board was scored.

Once the board is cut, it is always a good idea to double-check its length just to make sure a mistake didn’t happen.

You can use this board as the measuring template for the second board, or you can use the ruler.  Either way works.   Then repeat steps 2e-2h for this board.   After that, cut the long boards needed for the frame.

If you are using a power saw, make sure the saw blade will be cutting on the outside of the pencil line.

This rule applies regardless of the type of saw you using, including a table saw.

After all of the boards are cut, do a fit test. 

For this just place the support boards on the plywood and make sure everything fits within the bounds of the plywood. 

Or to put it another way, you want the edges of the support board to be flush with the edges of the plywood.  Also, you don’t want any large gaps between the support boards.

It is okay if the plywood is slightly larger than the support boards.  Once the cradled board is assembled, the plywood can be sanded down to size.   If the frame is larger than the plywood, then you need to cut down one or more of the support boards.

Assuming all is well, then apply a line of glue to one of the long support boards.

Spread the glue to the edges of the board.  You can use a brush instead of your finger.  

If you do use your finger, make sure to wipe off the glue after you’re done.  Otherwise you’re apt to get glue in places you don’t want it.

Line up the support board with the edge of the plywood. 

Make sure you are attaching the support board to the side of the plywood marked with an X.

Firmly press the board in place while making sure the edge of the board lines up with the edge of the plywood.

Apply one clamp at each end of the board.  Again, making sure the edges of the boards line up.

Then check for gaps between the plywood and the support board. 

This image shows a gap between the plywood and the support board.

To fix this, just apply a clamp to the middle of the board. 

Be aware that the longer the cradled board is, the more clamps you will probably need. 

Let the cradled board sit for 20-30 minutes.    I will mention here, that if you have enough clamps, you can continue to glue up boards and clamp them to the plywood.   Todd is just showing you that you can work one side at a time.

After you clamp the board, you will probably see some glue squeeze out.  With this board it is not necessary to remove the squeeze out, but the board will look nicer if you do.   You can sand off dried glue after the board is assembled.

Remove the clamps, and glue up one of the short side boards. 

Follow the same basic steps as before.

Make sure to put some glue on the end that will connect with the long board! 

Press firmly, make sure the edges are aligned, and clamp the board in place.  As you clamp, make sure the edges stay aligned.  Adjust them if they aren’t while the glue is still wet.

One important thing is to check for glue squeeze out along the open end of the board.  

If there is squeeze out here, it needs to be removed!  The reason is that the dried glue could interfere with the how the last board fits.

Todd likes to remove the squeeze out using a pop stick that one end has been cut off so it’s flat.

Here is a close-up photo of the pop stick he uses.  He sanded one of the rounded ends until the edge is straight.  Tongue depressor sticks would also work for this.

After the glue squeeze out is removed, let the board sit for 20-30 minutes.

Attach the other short board.  Save the long board for last. 

Again, make sure to apply glue to the end of the board that will touch the long board.

Of course, remove any glue squeeze out especially along the open end of the short board.

Glue up the final board.  Also, apply glue to the open end of both short boards!

After the final side has been glued, allowed to set up, and the clamps are removed, the board is ready for sanding.

Lightly sand all along the edges to remove any residual glue.  If an edge wasn’t lined up perfectly and sticks out, it can be sanded flush.   Sand the plywood (top board) using 220 grit.

Your 90-degree box frame styled cradled board is now ready.

STYLE 2 – 45-DEGREE PICTURE FRAME

Now let’s make the 45-degree picture frame styled cradled board.   The basic steps are extremely similar to the 90-degree style, so there won’t be as many pictures.

Before we get building, I want to talk about the basics of the support boards.   This image shows a rectangular piece of plywood and the blue lines represent the support boards.

Each support board on this style of frame has the same characteristics.  The only thing that may change is how long the support board needs to be.  With this example the top and bottom support boards would need to be longer than the left and right or side support boards.

The outer edge of every support board matches the length of the plywood it is attached to.   The outer edge will be visible.  If there is a blemish on the support board rotated it, so the blemish is on the inside.

The inner edge is shorter than the outer edge, and it’s not visible.  If you can, orient your board so that any blemishes will be on the inside edge.

Both ends of every support board will have 45-degree angle on them.

Measure and mark your boards for length.  Todd finds it helpful to write the measurement on the board.

Draw a basic line indicating the direction the 45-degree angle needs to be.   Don’t draw the 45-degree indicator line very dark.

He draws the 45-degree indicator line at both ends of the board.  Keep in mind that the board hasn’t been cut to length, so “end” of the board is at the mark for the length of the board.

He does the same thing with the support boards for on the opposite edges of the plywood.

 

Next use the combination rule to make a perfect 45-degree line on the board.  This line should be very dark, so it’s easy to see.

Here’s a closeup of the combination ruler.

Then saw the board to length.   Todd is using a table saw, but you can use a handsaw.  Just follow the same steps we used for the 90-degree box frame.  The only thing that changes is you’re cutting the board at an angle.

Make sure to put a 45-degree angle on both ends of the board, and they are both oriented in the same direction.

After all of the boards are cut, do a fit test.

Make sure the edges of the board are flush with the edges of the plywood. 

As I said before, it’s okay if the plywood sticks out a little because it can be sanded down to size.

Now assemble the support boards in a line with the long side facing up.  Make sure the edges of the boards are touching each other.

Then apply a long piece of painters tape (or masking tape), along the seam where two boards touch.  Make sure the tape extends 3 – 4 inches (7.6 – 10.2 cm) from the seam on each board.

Also apply a long piece of tape to the last board making sure there is several inches of surplus tape hanging off the end of it.

Now carefully roll the taped-up boards over as one unit.

Continue to rotate them until the long side is resting on the table and the short sides of the boards are facing up.

Next, apply a dollop of glue on the edge of each board.

 

Make sure the spread the glue around.  Again, you can use a brush for this.

Don’t forget to apply glue to the end of the last board.

Now carefully roll up the first board. 

 

Roll up the next board.

 

Grab the tape on the last board to pull up the board and finish the frame. 

Make sure to secure the last two boards well by pressing firmly over the tape.

 

You can clean the glue squeeze out on the inside corners of the frame, but leave the everything else alone.  It will get taken care of after the glue dries.  Also, use this time to make sure each corner is snug and flush.

Now let the frame sit for 20-30 minutes.

After the glue has set up, then clamp the frame to a table, so it won’t move around.

 

Sand over the corners to remove any glue squeeze out.  Make sure to flip the frame over and sand the corners on the opposite side.

Apply a line of glue over the edges on one side of the frame.

Spread the glue to the edges of the boards.

 

Grab the plywood, and make sure the side with the X is facing away from you.

Place the plywood down onto the frame.  Again, make sure the side marked with the X is the side touching the frame.  Check to make sure all of the edges are flush.

If you’re using weights, apply them one at a time.  After applying a weight, double-check the edges to make sure nothing shifted around.

Todd prefers to use clamps because they are easier to work with.  Plus, after it’s all clamped up you can move the board around and not worry about things shifting.  

This particular board took 8 clamps.  A larger board would most likely need more.   

After the board is all clamped up, let it sit for 20-30 minutes.

After the glue has set up, remove the clamps.

Then remove the tape, and light sand around the edges of the board to remove any dried glue.

The cradled board is built and ready for use.

IN CONCLUSION

I hope you found this tutorial easy to follow along with.   I think the ability to make your own cradled boards can be extremely useful; especially if you need custom sizes.  If nothing else, it really dresses up thin plywood.  With a few tools it’s not that hard to do.

Until the next blog,

Brenda

July 12, 2022

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