In this blog I want to cover what I think are two essential pen tips every pyrographer needs: a writer and a shader.  I have amassed a large selection of pen tips, but I only use a few of them.  The rest are just reminders of wasted money.  Let me explain why I think there are only two essential pen tips, and maybe I can help prevent you from buying tips you don’t need. 

I have a video version of this information.  Click on the image to the left to watch the video on YouTube.

This photo shows most of my pen tip collection.  Yes, I have quite a few of them, but most of them I don’t use.  

Of the many pen tips I own, there are only two I consider essential (circled in yellow).   The rest I could live without.

Looking at the large variety of pen tips manufacturers offer, it’s easy to assume that they all do something different.  I know I used to think this.   

In fact, I bought almost every pen tip that Colwood makes in the hopes of finding that perfect pen tip.  What I’ve discovered is that the majority of the tips don’t work well for my style of pyrography.

That’s because the majority of the pen tips are designed for wood carvers!   Something I wish I had known when I first started out.

Wood carvers work with 3D objects, so their needs are different than a pyrography artist who works on a flat surface. 

I’m not a carver, but my very basic understanding is that carvers use different pen tips to create textures. 

Pyrography artist, on the other hand, use different burn strokes to create textures.   

If you’ve watched a few of my tutorials, then you might know that I have 4 basic burn strokes:  uniform, pull-away, circular motion, and zigzags.  

I can use the basic burn strokes alone or layer them up to create numerous different textures. 

The most important thing is that any shader can be used for this!

I choose a particular pen tip based on its size.  For example, if I’m working on something small and highly detailed, I will grab a small shader or a writer pen tip.   Large background work I use the largest shader as I own.

Another way to think of this is to compare pen tips to paint brushes.   The tiny paintbrush on the right can be used to paint in a large background, but the one on the left will make the process easier and quicker.

The pen tip circled in red is close to the type of pen tip she used, but hers had an even smaller pen tip. 

It was very similar to Colwood’s old style of micro writer pen tip pictured here.   

 

 

ESSENTIAL PEN TIPS

Back to the essential pen tips that I think you should own. 

WRITER PEN TIP

For the writer pen tip, I would choose is Colwood’s standard C writer pen tip because of its versatility.  The shape is something I’ve seen in every wire tip burner system.

I use the writer for burning in trace lines, and working in tight corners where it’s hard to get a shader into.   I also use writers to do really fine (small) detail work like burning the pupils in eyes.

What I like about this pen tip is that you can hold is so the narrow edge is in contact with the wood to produce thin lines.  I’m holding the pen at a steep angle, so a very thin line is produced. 

Reducing the angle the pen is held at means that more of the metal is in contact with the wood, so a thicker line is produced.   This image shows several lines that have been created by gradually decreasing the angle the pen tip is held at.

Hold the pen so that the wide or curved side is in contact with the wood and you can get even wider burn strokes. 

The same thing can be done with burning dots.  The narrow side edge will produce very tiny dots.

The wider rounded end will produce larger dots. 

This image shows the range of lines and dots that can be produced with the C writer tip.  I’m sure that a greater variety can be created, but this gives you an idea.

ALTERNATE WRITER PEN TIP

If you have a pen tip that looks closer to one of these, then you’re good to go.  Both of these pen tips are micro writers (MR).  The one on the right is Colwood’s old style that they no longer make.  I own this style and still use it, so you may see it in my tutorials from time to time.

This style of writer isn’t as versatile as the standard writer, but it will do the job.

Like the C writer, you can alter the width of the burn lines by increasing or decreasing the angle you hold the pen tip at.

Since this style of writer has such a small tip, the range of line widths is limited.

In this photo you can see that the lines produced by the MR tip are narrower or thinner than those produced by the C writer.   The purple square frames the burn results from the C writer.

You can produce a range of dots with the MR tips.

Here’s the results from the old styled MR tip.

 

 

I’m including some burn results from Colwood’s current style of MR tip.

Despite looking much different from the old style, the burn results are the same. 

The only real difference between the two MR pen tips is that the old style isn’t as sturdy. 

A few years back I was burning some dots with the old style, and I using a bit more pressure than I should have.  I bent the pen tip.  I’ve never don’t that with the new style.

Here’s the burn results from the current style of MR writer pen tip that Colwood produces.

To summarize the difference between the two styles of writer pen tips. 

With the C writer you can create a larger variety of line widths and dot sizes

Also, the larger and more rounded shape of the C tip means it is less likely to sink down into the wood surface

With the MR writer it’s harder to get the line variety width that you can with the C writer

The MR is good when you need a consistent line width

I think the MR writer is better for very tiny details where you need a high degree of accuracy.

SHADER PEN TIP

For the shader, I would choose Colwood’s D shader.  The majority of my pyrography artwork is created using a shader.  Like the standard writer, I picking this particular shader because of its versatility.

You can create extremely thin lines with this shader.  This is done by holding the pen at a steep angle, so that only the razor edge of the tip is in contact with the wood.

Decrease the angle you hold the pen tip, and you increase the width of the lines or burn strokes created.

 

The upper left side of the D shader can produce a much thicker line than the front or toe of the shader.

You can also use the long edge of the right side to produce really wide burn strokes.  I will admit that it is a bit tougher to get consistent results with this side.  Part of that is because you have to burn while pushing the pen tip away from yourself.

Here’s a photo showing the different sized burn strokes I created with the D shader.  Again, I know that a wider variety can be created, but this gives you a good idea of what it is capable of.

ALTERNATE SHADER

If the D shader is not an option for you, then I’d recommend getting something that looks like Colwood’s J shader.   This style or shape of pen tip is one that I have seen in almost every brand of burner.  

This shader works just like the D shader.  Super thin lines are created by holding it at a steep angle, so that only the razor edge of the shader is touching the wood.

As you decrease the angle you hold the tip at, the width of the line or burn stroke increases.  The lines in this photo were created with the side of the shader.

You can also use the front or toe of the shader to get an assortment of burn widths.

Again, as the angle you hold the pen tip decreases, more metal is in contact with the wood, and the width of the burn stroke increase.

The widest stroke I’ve been able to create with the J shader was done with the long edge or side of the shader.  This burn stroke isn’t a wide as what the D shader can produce, but that is really the only different between the two.

Here’s a photo showing the range of burn strokes I created with the J shader.   I will admit that I have more experience using this shader, so it is easier for me to create a greater variety of burn stroke widths.    You will discover the same thing with any pen tip you get really familiar with. 

SHADER COMPARISON

The D shader can produce a slightly wider burn stroke than the J shader.

The J shader is a more commonly found pen tip shape

Unlike the D shader, I have found that almost every brand of burner has a pen tip

shaped very similar to if not exactly like the J shader

Either shader can be used to create any of the textures that I know how to do

I prefer the D shader when working on backgrounds because of its ability to create a wider burn stroke

FLAT VS BENT

Depending on where you buy your shaders from, they may arrive flat.  Or maybe I should say straight.   This photo shows a flat shader on the left, and a bent one on the right.

I personally think that shaders are easier to use if they are bent at a 45-degree angle

Some manufacturers offer bent tips and others don’t

For example, Optima offers a number of their pen tips in both the flat and bent format.  In this photo the 3rd and 5th pen tips are bent versions of the pen tip appearing above it.   What I like about Optima is that they charge the same price regardless of whether the pen tip is bent or not.

With Colwood, there is a dropdown box for you to choose if you want the pen tip bent or not.

What I don’t like is that Colwood charges a fee to bend their tips.   

I got these screen shots on December 4th, 2021.  That that time the D replaceable tip cost $9.00 for the unbent version.    They charge $13.45 just to bend the tip.  Maybe I’m just a cheap tightwad, but that’s seems like a lot of money just to bend the tip.

The other thing I don’t care for is that Colwood bends their tips on the two wire leads.  The left pen tip pictured is one bought bent from Colwood.  The red arrow is pointing to the spot where Colwood bends their tips.

Most other companies bend the tips where to two leads end and the flat shader begins.  The pen tip on the right shows this style of bending.  A yellow-green arrow is pointing to the spot.

I actually prefer my shader pen tips to be bent like those on the right.     

Also, I only bend my shader pen tips.  Writers, skews, ball tips, etc., I don’t want bent.

This photo shows a flat styled pen tip. 

If you look at the side profile of this pen tip, you can easily see that it is straight.   A good majority of pen tips are manufactured this way.

I’ve placed pliers on the flat of the tip just where the two wire leads end.

Then I hold onto the two wire leads and very gently bend the tip.   

I bend all of my own pen tips.  Be aware that if you bend your own tips, you are avoiding any warranty that the tips may have! 

Be aware that if you bend your own tips, you are avoiding any warranty that the tips may have!   Yes, I repeated that line twice to make sure you are aware.  I don’t want someone bending their own pen tip and then getting mad at me because they voided the manufacturer’s warranty.

ROUNDED SHADERS

Let me point out that not everyone likes flat shaders.  I’ve had several artists tell me that they love spoon shaders.

Others have told me they love using ball tips. 

The reason people like the spoon and ball shaders is because their rounded shape are less likely to snag on the wood.  To put it another way, they glide over the surface of the wood easier than flat shaders do.    

I have tried both the spoon and ball tips for shading, but I never felt comfortable with either style. 

The reason was that I wasn’t 100% sure exactly where I was burning or how close to the edge of the object I was getting. 

The point is that we are all different, so if you hate the shader you are using try another.  Eventually you’ll find the perfect shader for you.

STICK WITH ONE

I do highly recommend sticking with 1 shader when you are first learning.  The reason is that you will learn the mechanics of that shader.  You will discover things like how hold it to get different burn widths, and what temperatures it performs best at for the wood you’re burning on. 

The less time you spend thinking about the mechanics of the shader, the more time you can concentrate on burning. 

For example, I have a lot more experience with the J shader than I do with D shader.   I tend to work on small highly detail objects, so the smaller size of the J shader immediately appealed to me.  Because of my familiarity with this shader I can create a wide range of burn widths.  Plus, I can almost adjust the heat setting on my burner almost instantly to get the desired burn darkness result.   With any other shader I have to spend more conscious effort on the mechanics of the pen. 

Non-Essential Pen Tips

If you are ready to add to your pen tip collection, there are a couple I would recommend. 

First off I think it is very handy to have shaders in different sizes.  Again, this is not essential.  Instead it is just for convenience.     This photo shows the shaders I use on a semi regular basis.  In order of appearance I have the mini J, E, D, S, and LSS shaders.   I also have the regular J shader, but it doesn’t appear in this photo).

If I had to choose just 1 extra shader, I’d pick as large of a shader that you can find.   With Colwood that would be their shader.  Colwood also calls this a spade shader.  I like to use this shader when doing background and border frame work.   On occasion I work on larger pieces, and this shader is handy for that too. 

The size of the shader does not change how it works.   Use the razor edge to burn thin lines. 

Decrease the angle you hold the tip at and you can get wider burn strokes.   

 

The more metal in contact with the wood the wider the burn strokes become.

The rounded heel is another pen tip that can be handy to have on hand.   This type of pen tip burn super thin lines, and that’s really all it does.  I’ve seen this type of pen tip referred to as skews and sharp points.  I don’t use this pen tip very often.    Mostly I use it to create a texture that looks like coarse fabric.   

This photo shows the thinness of the lines that can be created.

 

This photo shows a steampunk fish I did.  On the mouth I created a rough crosshatch texture using the rounded heel.  This pen tip has a very thin edge, so it sinks down into the surface of the wood very easily.   I will set the heat so that it produces a light tan burn result, and burn crosshatch lines into the wood.   When burned over with a shader, you end up with white lines running through the area.   

Quite truthfully, you could use a sharp knife to get the same results.   

This ink drawing shows the different directions I burn the thin lines.   I start out burning a series of vertical lines (box 1).   Then I burn diagonal lines (box 2).   Lastly, I burn a layer of horizontal lines (box 3).   

The fourth box show how lines look layered together.

Ball pen tips can be handy, but I will admit that I don’t use them often.  Generally my use of them is limited to mandala art and stippling.   I like to stipple over animal noses to give them as slightly bumpy texture.  

Colwood sells a set of 3 ball tips; small (b1), medium (b2), and large (b3).  B1 has a .0394″ diameter, B2 .0625″ diameter, and B3 .09375″ diameter. 

The only ones I’ve used are B2 and B3. The size of dot created by B1 can easily be replicated with a writer pen tip. 

B2 can also be replicated with a writer, but if it’s important that the dots all be the same size then the ball tip is a better choice.   As for B3, the large ball tip, I don’t have a writer pen tip that can create the same size of dot.   

MANUFACTURER WEBSITES

I’d like to walk you through a few of the manufacturers websites, and tell you what I’d look for when considering a shader pen tip.  First off, you’re looking for pen tips that can be used for flat work pyrography.   I base the decision two things.   1) The look of the shader.  2) The manufacturer’s descriptions and recommendations for their pen tips.         

Looking at this composite photo of different pen tip from assorted manufacturers, I circled pen tips that based on shape have the potential to be shaders. 

Any pen tip I’m interested in, then I examine all provided photos and read the description.  Let’s look at some websites.

Optima’s website is very straightforward.  Begin by clicking on the link in the left box called pen styles. 

Here’s a link to their site:  Optima

Now you will see a list of their pen tips. 

The list features a picture of the pen tip on the left. 

The center column contains the name and description of the pen tip.  

The far-right column lists the recommended application for the pen tip, which is helpful. 

Of the 7 pen tips in this list, only 3 are listed as suitable for flatwork.  I marked the 3 with blue stars. 

Keep in mind that this isn’t a complete list, but it gives you an idea of how many pen tips are designed for wood carvers. 

I will add that it is possible the spear point (pen #5) could be used as a shader.

Also, I ignore anything that says skew.  The reason is that those type of pen tips have a very thin edge designed for creating thin lines.   

I won’t get into how you order pen tips from Optima as that isn’t the point of this, but I will say that I really disliked their ordering system. 

Razortip has an easy to navigate site too.  Click on the pyrography tip shapes link on the left. 

Here’s a link to their site:  Razortip

Then you are presented with a screen groups the pen tips by type.  They have a group for their shaders. 

 

 

 

Clck on the shaders icon and you can see all of the pen tips Razortip recommends for flatwork shading.  

What I don’t like about Razortip’s site is the lack of one place to view all of the pen tips.  I found a large spear pen tip that might work as a shader under the cutting tips.  

 

Colwood’s website starts out ok, but quickly becomes a pain.  Begin by click on the “tips” link to expand the menu. 

Here’s a link to their website:  Colwood

Then you have to select the style of pen tip you prefer: fixed or replaceable.  Fixed tips that come permanently mounted to a handset.  Replaceable means you just get the pen tip and the handset is a separate item.   You can have 1 handset and just switch out pen tips.     

Which is a better system?  I couldn’t tell you.  I bought a fixed tip shader and I didn’t notice a performance different.  From what I’ve read, the fixed tips are supposed to be more reliable and produce a more constant output.   

Maybe if you’re using the same pen tip for hours and hours a day this might be an important issue.  For me it’s not.

I clicked on the replaceable option and was presented with a grid showing pictures of their pen tips.  Below each picture is the name of the pen tip and the price.  You have to click on an image in the grid to get more information on that particular pen tip.

Reading through the description on this particular pen tip states:  Largest of the rounded tips and is used for concave areas, such as under the neck and where the leg joins the body.  The tip style will follow concave surfaces without digging into the wood.

After reading that I can with certainty that this pen tip is designed for wood carvers. 

What is not very clear, is if the Colwood considers the pen tip to be suitable for flatwork. 

The information at the bottom (circled in red) is stock verbiage that appears on almost every single pen.  It basically says that you can opt to have the pen tip polished and / or bent.  Then it explains what each option will do.   Polishing reduces drag and makes it easier to clean the tip.  Bending make it easier to shade without putting your hand in an awkward position.   

That clears up all of my questions.  Not.

Some pen tips, like the D shader, don’t even have a description.  Instead, you get a repeat of the pen tip’s name and the stock verbiage.    

Click on Colwood’s “classroom” tab (found at the top of their menu bar), provides several pdf’s that might provide some help.

There is a “tip usage” pdf file.

This file vaguely hints that rounded tips can be used on flat surfaces.   The exact verbiage is “by rolling the pen while burning you can create smooth curved lines on flat surfaces.”   

Continue reading down to the tip styles paragraph, and states that the A, D, and J shader are considered round shaders.   

If you cannot guess, I’m not overly impressed with Colwood’s website.  I like their burner well enough.  Just remember that I haven’t tried any other brand, so I have nothing to compare it to.  I’m not willing to waste money trying other brands when this one is working just fine.   

One day I might purchase some pen tips from other companies to see if there is a difference.

The Brenn-Peter burner is another brand I see mentioned a lot. 

Their pictures of the burners are terrible.  They are all similar to this one, and It’s hard to tell what sort of pen tips come with the burner.  The description doesn’t provide any useful information in that regard. 

I found an alternate picture of the same burner on another website.  While the pen tips might be a touch easier to see, this site provided even less information than Brenn-Peters did.

There are additional pen tip sets are available for the burners.  This particular set has a couple of flat shaders that are very similar to what I use.

Some of you have more generic burners. 

A few of you love to send me pictures of some generic burner and want to know if I think it’s decent. 

I cannot answer that question.  All I can say is that if it has a temperature control, it should work just fine.   You’d have to do some research like reading reviews to help answer that question.  It seems like just about every burner on the market has YouTube reviews on it.

If your generic burner doesn’t have a flat shader in it, there are numerous sets available on Amazon that do.  The sets aren’t very expensive, but I can’t tell you how good the sets are.  

 

One benefit of this type of wire tip, is that you can make your own. 

The Learning Droid is a channel on YouTube that has several videos showing you how to make your own.  Here’s link to his channel:  Learning Droid

Richy Coelho has a couple of videos where he makes pen tips.  One of them is a spoon shader.   Here’s a link to Richy’s channel:   Richy Coelho

I’m sure that there are others teaching this skill, but these are the two that showed up in my search.

IN CONCLUSION

This photo shows all of the pen tips I use enclosed in colored frames.  The two yellow ovals are the essential pen tips.  The orange frame contains the shaders and micro writer that I use on a semi-regular basis.  The red frame contains the ball tips and the rounded heel that I use on rare occasion.  

Of the 33 pen tips shown, I’ve only circled 12 of them; less than half.   I could buy a new burner with the money I’ve spent on pen tips I don’t use! 

Buying a bunch of pen tips you don’t need is what I’m trying to keep you from doing.

That is it for this blog.  I hope this blog will help you pick pen tips and answer some basic questions about the pen tips.  It is really important to keep in mind that everyone is different.  The shader that works best for you might not be the same one that works best for me.  Don’t be afraid to experiment with your pen tips. 

Brenda

Jan 4, 2022

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